Nearly Zero

Why I bother

I started reading labels and couldn't stop

More than half of the fiber made in the world today is polyester. Polyester, nylon and acrylic are all plastics.

They shed tiny fibers every time they're worn and washed. Those fibers sit against your skin, float around the house and go down the drain.

Linen, wool, cotton and silk don't. They breathe, they soften with age, and people have dressed in them for thousands of years. They've just gotten hard to find, so I do the looking for you.

How the shop works

Three ways to find the good stuff

Ships from me

Pieces I've found at thrift shops and on clearance racks, checked by hand. You buy them here and I ship them myself from my own stock.

Hand-picked pieces

Specific items at other stores that pass the test. You'll buy them on the store's own site.

Makers I trust

Whole brands that work in real fibers, with notes on which of their pieces to skip.

How I count

What the numbers mean

A fabric label only describes the cloth. It leaves out the thread, the elastic and the zipper, so a shirt labeled 100% cotton is almost always sewn with polyester thread. I look at the whole garment and give it one of four numbers.

0%

Cotton, linen or silk thread. Buttons of shell, wood, nut or metal. No elastic, or natural rubber only.

Under 1%

Ordinary polyester thread and a care label. Maybe a few plastic buttons or a short zipper.

Under 3%

A little elastic, like the cuffs or part of the back waist.

Under 5%

A full elastic waistband, or elastic along with a long zipper.

Fabrics I list

  • Cotton, linen, hemp, ramie
  • Wool, cashmere, alpaca, mohair
  • Silk, leather, down
  • Viscose, rayon, modal, lyocell, cupro

Never in the cloth or lining

  • Polyester, including recycled
  • Nylon, acrylic, polypropylene
  • Stretch fabric blended with spandex or elastane
  • Faux leather, fleece backing, plastic coatings

The numbers are careful estimates from how each piece is made, not lab measurements. Viscose and rayon come from wood pulp and hold no plastic, but they're heavily processed, so the shop gives them their own filter.

Takes about a minute

Read a label the way I do

Works in any store, thrift or otherwise.

  1. Find the fabric label. Put the piece back if it lists polyester, nylon, acrylic, elastane or spandex.
  2. Turn it inside out. Linings get their own line on the label. Viscose, cupro and acetate are fine. Polyester and nylon aren't.
  3. Stretch the waist and cuffs. Elastic is okay. It just moves the piece to under 3% or under 5%.
  4. Look at the buttons and zipper. Shell, wood, nut and metal keep a piece at 0%. Plastic makes it under 1%.
  5. Crush the cloth in your fist. Cotton and linen crease and stay creased. Polyester springs back smooth.

Go shopping